So Long and Thanks for All the Fish (forgive me Douglas Adams)

We have a weather window to make tracks north before a cold front comes through so we are headed north at a fairly good clip.  It took us almost a month to make it down to GT (Georgetown) but 3 days to make it back to Nassau.  We had 3 spectacular days of sailing.  Our first day was in the Atlantic with strong winds pushing us up the Exuma Chain. The seas were 6-8 feet with an occaisonal 10 foot wind driven swell.  It was not like that sea state in the Gulf of Mexico since the period between the waves was much longer.  It was exhilerating to learn to time the waves and ride them while maintaining control of the boat.  The wind and waves combined were too stiff for the poor autohelm to keep up so we had to hand steer.  Since we had steady winds and daylight it was fun instead of terrifying.  We managed to dodge several rain squalls so overall the day was great.  The harriest part of the trip was coming back into the Exuma Bank side of the chain.  The cuts are narrow and have to be timed to make the tide and the waves agree.  A strong wind in opposition to a strong current can create standing waves that no boat can survive called The Rage.  We had timed it right but it was still a white knuckle few minutes.  David was shooting pictures of the white horses at the end of Great Guana Cay for me while I paid strict attention to not crashing into the rocks.  With the wind pushing us along with the current we rushed in at over 9 kts!!!!  No roller coaster ride could match the thrill.  Once inside the cut the water immediately settled down and we spent a blissful night tucked into a safe harbor.  The next morning we were off early for another long day of knocking back the miles.  The Banks were so much calmer, maybe 2-3 foot waves with a strong, steady wind pushing us so again a marvelous day of sailing.  We anchored a bit north of our previous spot off Norman's Cay.  We arrived in plenty of time to settle in and enjoy a glorious sunset followed by an amazing moonrise.  Crusing has never been better.  In the morning, the weather still looked good so off we went for Nassau.  The seas were a bit larger 3-4 feet but again, the wind was pushing us and we had another great day.  In three days we covered over 130 miles but never had a lot of discomfort due to adverse heeling or rocking.  These kind of days keep you going through the beating to weather days.
We are in Nassau to resupply with fuel, food and clean laundry.  The weather window is starting to close so we are carefully considering our options.  We'd like to make it up the Berry Island Chain and then wait on good weather to make either West End on Great Bahama Island or straight to Stuart, FL.  We plan to take the Okeechobee Waterway across.  This will be a learning opportunity for us since we have never negotiated locks before.  It will be a bit of a nostalgia trip too since we have ridden our bicycles around the entire lake and know what it looks like from shore.  Now we'll be in the lake looking to shore. 

The sky was overcast so the White Horses didn't look so white but they were a sight to see none the less.

The other side of Dotham Cut.  Those rocks looked jagged and deadly from my viewpoint!

Farewell Exumas, Hello Nassau.

More Stocking Island

We had a calm enough day to take the dingy over to a beach inside Gaviotta Bay and then hike over the dune to the Exuma Sound side of Stocking Island.  There isn't much between that side of the island and Africa so the waves can build to an intense level.  It was magnificent that day but I imagine when a storm is out there it is more along the lines of horrifying.  We went with Jim and Sherry that day and then they hosted us for a marvelous farewell dinner aboard Dulcinea.  We feel extremely fortunate to have met them and had the opportunity to cruise with them.  They are truly intrepid souls who will reach whatever goals they set for themselves.  We look forward to keeping up with their continued journey via their blog bluewatergypsies.blogspot.com.  Their ultimate goal is around the world but this season is the Dominican Republic to wait out the hurricane season.  We wish them all the best and hope to cross paths with them in the future.

Like so many places in the Exumas, this lone palm tree stood as a sentinel to the path.

The sand on the ocean side was soft with so many blasts from the waves wearing the shells down to fine granules.

This poor little plant is striving to survive the harsh conditions of a windward beach.  It had moved so much that it formed its own little wind rose in the sand.

As we were coming down the path back to Gaviotta Bay, the water looked so much calmer.  It still had its bumps but no pounding surf.

Sherry in the companionway.

Jim at his helm.

 

Stocking Island

That are currently hundreds of boats anchored out along the beaches of this very pretty island just across the harbor from Georgetown.  Many countries are represented and you can see a small 27 foot boat next to some 50+ yacht.  The megayachts are mostly up at Emerald Bay, a luxury resort about 10 miles north of here.  There are so many activities all organized and run by volunteers.  I have been attending yoga on the beach each morning.  Sand isn't as friendly as a floor but it works.  There are volleyball games going on constantly, with basketweaving, dominoes, softball and art classes added to the mix.  People spend their time at the beach bar, Chat and Chill, doing just that chillin out and chatting.  We have been snorkeling and did a very short dive on a cave that is theorized to run under the island to the Exuma Sound side.  At the time we went over there, the current was strongly towing us into the cave so we didn't press our luck and get caught in there.  We found some great reefs with a variety of fish and corals.  They weren't the best we've seen but better than anything we've seen in the panhandle of Florida.  We have had very strong winds associated with a cold front (brrr all the way down to 70 degrees) so we have spent time reading and watching movies.  Today is catch up on email and the blog and David is polishing stainless.  We still have wahoo to eat even after sharing half of it.  Hopefully we can catch more fish as we make our way home.

The Chat and Chill.  This is a typical day.  The sign post to the right has towns from around the world represented.

For all our family in Texas, just in case you were wondering how far away you are.  We also found a boat from Fort Worth called Hello Texas.

One of the paths leading over to the Exuma Sound side of the island.  We are in Gaviotta Bay exploring when we took this picture.

This is one of the mooring areas inside Gaviotta Bay.  Most people seem to prefer the free anchorages outside.  Many of these boats are not currently occupied with their owners either not arrived by air yet or back home for a visit.  The mooring are well founded and popular for those needing to leave the area but wishing to leave their boats here.

Our anchorage just off the beach of Chat and Chill.  This is just one of the several places with boats along the island.

The sign post for the bar. I thought it was cute how they used little feet to tell the distance to the bar.

The St. Francis is a popular meeting spots for dinner and drinks.  They also host many activities like Bible study and poker games.

Georgetown

Georgetown is a very nice little town surrounding a small lake connected to a cove.  Lake Victoria is accessed through this very small opening that only small boats and no sailboats can get through.  One of the local groceries stores has wisely installed a long dingy dock so cruisers can tie up and shop at their store.  Of course, you can go elsewhere but most don't want to bite the hand that provides a convenient tie up and free water as well.  The entire circle of the lake can be walked in under an hour.  There are little shops all along the way as well as the straw market, two liquor stores, several churches and restaurants and the important laundromat.  As we have come to expect, the people are very friendly and they obviously like the income from the cruisers.  For many people, Georgetown is the ultimate destination for wintering over and they get here from the States or Canada as quickly as possible then settle in for a few or several months.  Others use this as a rest and resupply stop before they head farther south in the Carribean. For us, we're here to see what it is all about and turn back towards home on a good weather window.  Still not sure when that will be, possibly as early as Saturday.  We won't be able to lollygag on the way back but should see some new things once we get north of Nassau.

We are in the anchorage at Kidd cove. The wind had us facing over towards Stocking Island.  People don't tend to stay anchored here beyond what is needed to go into town and resupply with food and drink.  Most of the socializing is over on Stocking Island.

This is the opening into Lake Victoria.  When you walk across the opening, you hardly even notice it is a bridge.

Georgetown, at least a part of it from the dingy dock.

I joiking said that I wanted this house as a birthday present.  When I found out is actually a hotel, I decided I couldn't be that  greedy.

This sign is at the head of the dingy dock.  The jacket was on the sign for several days.  Crime doesn't seem to be a problem here.

This is another view of the previously shown hotel.  I was trying to get a picture of when the freighter came back to make it look like it was going into the hotel then checking out.  Sadly, really sadly, I was defrosting the refrigerator and giving it a good cleaning.  A nasty job at best.  Not, however, as nasty as the rebuild job David did on the head.  It had developed a nasty leak (really nasty) and instead of more half measures, he rebuilt the entire pump assembly and replaced the joker valve.  I did my part to help by making the water runs and telling him how wonderful he was.

Finally a Connection

I have hopefully resolved the software problems with my wifi extender and can get back to posting pictures.  We sailed from Little Farmer's Cay to Kidd Cove very near Georgetown.  We spent a few days there then moved over to Stocking Island just across Elizabeth Harbor.  Two different worlds! I'll start with posting some pictures from along the way to Georgetown then move on from there.  Enjoy!

This is the little village on Farmer's Cay.  It is so typical of Bahamanian villages in the Family Islands of Exuma.

David tried his hand, well ok, his mouth at conch blowing.  Turns out the bit of shell broken off the side kept him from success.  So the search for the perfect shell continues.

The first of the dolphin fish we caught.  For the politically correct, it is a mahi mahi.  When first brought aboard, they are this gorgeous yellow and blue color with vivid dots.  They quickly turn a dark color so I had to get the pictures fast..

And the second one.  We had another on the hook but one beautiful leap and it threw the hook.  Yep, the one that got away!

Both together with the lures that caught them.  David was so thrilled.  These are the first really large fish we have ever caught.  They hit so close together we must have found a school of them.

And the real prize, a large wahoo.  That is not the usual "take the picture already smile" but a real one.  For a guy who claims to hate picture taking he had me take about a dozen or more including the cleaning process.  Being a G rated blog, I left those out.

In Loving Memory

Today the Claney and Tye families are saying farewell to one of the most wonderful ladies to ever have graced this earth, Flossie Mae Price Claney.  While we are enjoying our trip, we truly regret not being with every one else as they bid our loving Nanny farewell.  The world is poorer for her passing but richer for her having been here and now heaven is even better.

Little Farmer's Cay

This is another lovely stopover spot.  It is right at one of the cuts into the Atlantic and one of the last points this far south to make the trip out and then south to Georgetown.  We are sitting in the dry, friendly Farmer's Cay YC catching up on computer work and playing cards.  Jim and David got a full tour of the facilities by the owner.  It is currently raining so this is a great place to be right now.

Farmer's Cay Yacht Club.

Again, most of the land is very rocky.  We pulled the dingy up on a spit of sand but David is trying to find a rock that will hold the dingy at tide change.

This is Oceans Cabin club.  It is farther on into town.  Very nice people here and makers of an awesome Little Farmers surprise punch.  They took our reservations for the mooring but we went down the hill to pay another man.  Everyone on the island is related and they all help each other out.  Nice way to be.

Farmer's Cay from the mooring ball.  The cell tower is there but as per usual, doesn't always transmit a signal.  The locals have an "Oh well attitude."  I have not yet been blessed with that type of patience or understanding.

A typical house.  If you blow up the photo, you'll see the stacks of beer boxes in the yard, also typical.

This complex is just off our beam.  It is a dead resort at the very end of Great Guana Cay.  The lady at the yacht club said they had great ambitions to build a resort and marina and then found out the cost of building the marina.  They come back and do a little work then leave.  It was completely dark last night so I guess they're not there now.

The hotel section of the dead marina.

A freighter washed ashore.  That must have been one bad storm and one very sad captain.

We'll be going out the right side of the rock in the foreground tomorrow.  Should be a straight shot out.  We always hope.

More Black Point Pictures

This is a view of the anchorage from the hill across the way.  On our last day we hiked to the northern end of the island.  If you notice the clouds, that has been a daily scene.  One night we were up and down closing ports and hatches then reopening to avoid being too stuffy.  At least it is deleting the salt on all the surfaces.

There are large cacti all over the island.  I couldn't find out if they are native or not.

One of the rock formations on the Atlantic (Exuma Sound) side of the island.  You can really see the forces of wind and rain on the limestone.

There was apparently an attempt at a resort on this end of the island.  There were several houses in various stages of building and disrepair.  We'll keep this in mind in case we're ever tempted to invest in resort property.

These are the real white cliffs at the north end, called the White Horses by the locals.

This is what I took to be those same cliffs and posted on the first Black Point post.  Turns out it is a huge pile of crushed limestone. We learned the source from a nice lady at Farmer's Cay.  When the private owner of Bell Island was doing his developing he need somewhere to dump his excavated rocks and no one stopped him from just dumping.  As she said "If you have money you can get away with anything."  I guess that is a universal truth, too bad.

David standing on top of one of the many, many piles.  That must be one huge development.

In the middle of the island is another failed resort.  This castle is one of those places that was completed.  There were no power lines leading to it and we don't know if anyone was living there or it was abandoned too.

Pictures from Black Point and Staniel

This is the inside of the Staniel Cay Yacht Club.  The flags are from all over the world donated by visiting boaters.  It has a great bar and restaurant. 

Our friends from Sandy Beach and Dulcinea as we watch the playoff games.

Approaching Great Guana Cay you see these massive white cliffs.  We hope to walk out to see them this afternoon.

One side of the government dock has the words Welcome to Black Point and the other side, shown here, is Stick to the Point.

The back of the Rockside Laundry where I posted from yesterday.  It truly is the best laundromat in the Bahamas.  The dingy dock is seen along the shore.  A procession of dingys arrive daily with bags to wash.  The top floor offers rooms for the boaters weary of the constant motion and in need of a rest.

These colorful cottages are on the opposite side of the harbor from us.

The clinic is the largest we've seen since Nassau.

The aptly named Friendly grocery store.

This man has a fascinating collection of wood and stone arranged in different places on his property.  He points out the shape he sees in each one.  He told us that he wanted to give tourists something to do besides sit in the bars all day.  He also composts and has filled many of the sinkholes in the rock with enough dirt to grow a large variety of vegetables and many fruit trees.  One of our more fascinating stops.  Mr. Rolle calls his place the Garden of Eden.

First barnyard animal we've seen besides the ever present chickens and the swimming pigs.

This is the place where you wait for the inter-island ferrys.  Like so many places, someone has taken the time to paint a mural.

Lorraine's internet cafe, restaurant and bar.  This is where I'm posting from right now.  She also bakes awesome cakes.

This post office had a person who would take our mail.  The boat doesn't leave until Saturday and I'm not sure where it goes from here but the letter should arrive before we do.